Sunday, April 20, 2014

Stillwater Artisinal Event at Dig Bar + Brian "Stillwater" Strumke






Last Friday, I was lucky enough to be invited to join AQ Bevolution's Kansai Launch Event of Stillwater Artisinal at Dig Bar in Osaka. In attendance was Brian Strumke, aka Brian Stillwater, who I was lucky enough to chat with before the event got into full swing. 





 They had a selection of 7 Stillwater beers available for the first time in Japan: Classique, Stateside Saison, Why Can't IBU (great name), Cellar Door, Folklore, As Follows & Existent.


 
taking tasting notes
 
The first question I asked Brian was "Why did he decide now was the right time to export to Japan?" He explained that now that he is working with Two Roads Brewing he finally has enough beer to export.

And like most people would if given the chance he chose to export to countries that he always wanted to visit. The lucky ones were Japan, Brazil and Australia. He hit Brazil last month and is going to Australia next month. Brian's a busy guy these days and yeah I'm jealous since I have yet to go to Brazil or Autralia myself. Someday...

I asked him about the fact that the original event info had only 4 beers available and what was responsible for this sudden increase (not that I was complaining mind you). Basically, problems delayed the shipping date and by the time those were sorted out Stillwater had a bunch of additional beers ready and available for shipping. AQ Bevolution smartly jumped at the chance and snapped them up thus pretty much doubling the variety of beers for the Japan Launch of Stillwater. A fortuitous situation!

My next question was about his status as a gypsy brewer and where exactly all of today's beers were made. He let me know that all the beers imported to Japan so far have been brewed at Two Roads but in the future we can expect some small batch beers brewed at smaller breweries to make it over here in small quantities. These limited releases will of course have a higher price tag but should be worth.

Brian also mentioned some other beers that should be joining the Stillwater family in Japan soon including A Saison Darkly and Of Love & Regret!

As a gypsy brewer who's working at some very advanced high tech breweries these days (Two Roads) he's not involved that much in the day to day brewing which is mostly automated. This gives him the chance to focus on developing new beer recipes and keep an eye on quality control by checking batches as they're ready to release.

Brian got his start like many people homebrewing and as a homebrewer myself, we chatted about how we got started and I referred to what he said in a previous interview where he said: 


I told him I basically follow the same brewing philosophy. In Japan, we have access to lots of great hoppy imports as well as an increasing number of good domestic hoppy craft beers so I tend to brew seasonals that might not make it in time to Japan like pumpkin beers. Brian isn't a fan of ultra-spicy pumpkin ales and me neither we both seem to prefer pumpkin beers which are more pumpkin than spice forward.

During that chat when I said that my second brew was a lager due to brewing in the winter in a cold Japanese house he revealed that the same thing happened to him "I started brewing saisons as my basement had 80F (27C) degree temperatures so I needed to use a high temperature yeast and it pushed me to master saison yeasts"

So Brian Stillwater's love for the flexibility and loosely defined saison style began due to a homebrewer having to brew in less than ideal circumstances. Necessity is the mother of invention! In my opinion, this little fact paved the way for him becoming a saison specialist that brews a saison for everyone from dry, fruity, funky to barnyard he's got a saison for every taste!


Stillwater Classique 4.5%
Post-Prohibition Style Beer IBU 10 

A slightly cloudy straw gold pour with a big foamy head that leaves behind good lacing. Fruity funky saison yeast notes in the nose. Zesty soft carbonation, ascerbic mouth puckeringly bitter, saison spice, some citrus & a dry bitter finish. At first I got some metallic notes but the second time around not so much. Later on served in an aroma glass at room temperature. It has a more grassy spicy aroma with the classic saison nose. A light zesty body with an ascerbic mouthfeel, mild metallic notes, spices, quite tasty stuff. Lots of flavor for the low ABV. This beer grew on me. Solid.





Stillwater Why Can't IBU 5.7%
IPA/Saison Hybrid IBU 23 

I love the punny name. Much more of a funky aroma & a slightly darker gold than Classique with some fruity banana or bubblegum in the nose. Barnyard funk, spicy, fruity with a very dry finish that has an almost cinnamon quality to it. It didn't seem all that IPA like as I felt the Classique had more of a bitter kick though a lower IBU. I heard from others who had it in a more typical glass that they got much more of a hop profile from it with some  citrusy hoppiness.






Stillwater Stateside Saison 6.8%
American Farmhouse Ale IBU 18

These saisons should really hit the spot this summer. This pours a crystal clear gold with a nice head of foam. Probably clearer than either the Classique or Why Can’t IBU. It has more of a fruity Belgian blonde aroma while the taste is fruity, zesty with tons of spicy estery goodness. Really nice, my favorite of the night. 

Stillwater As Follows 9%
An Eschatological Ale - Belgian Strong

 A clear deep yellow shining gold. A great yeasty full spicy aroma. A smooth med-full bodied beer. A really tasty beer that has benefited from getting to room temperature. Fruity, spicy, funky goodness, I feel it is actually tastier warm than cold. The amazing thing about this beer is it is so easy to drink I had no idea it was 9%.
Stillwater Folklore 8.4%
An Untraditional Stout - Foreign Stout IBU 33

One of their rare dark beers, it’s brewed with the Rochefort yeast strain. It pours a dark brown with a rusty beige head. The aroma is plum, roasty chocolate with a bunch of umami meatiness. The mouthfeel is quite nice, silky smooth & full bodied. The taste is sharp, fruity, dark roasty, pitted fruits - cherry-like. Great for people who like big bold dark beers that are a bit in your face.









Stillwater Cellar Door 6.5%
Belgian White brewed with Sage IBU 12

On tap at the Stillwater at Dig Bar. It pours a clear deep gold with a thin filmy head that quickly dissipates. A huge sage aroma assaults your nose  but in a good way. The flavor is somewhat candy sweet with a funky saison character and tons of sage. Really interesting stuff. I enjoyed it as I am a fan of fruit beers though for a witbier I felt it was a bit too clear but that's just quibbling really.




Stillwater Existent 7.4%
American Farmhouse Ale - Black Saison IBU 20

The brewer himself found it hard to categorize this beer but I’d say it is a blend of a robust porter & a saison. It pours a beautiful clear ruby brown. The aroma is nutty & mild at first but over time grows to become more pronounced. Medium bodied, chocolate, nuts and wine notes are present in the taste. This is a subtle beer that like the other Stillwater beers really open up & evolve as they warm up. One of my favorites of the night.






While in Japan, Brian Stillwater also took the chance to brew a collaboration with Hitachino Nest a Sake Saison. Apparently, it was a small batch that will only be distributed in Japan by Hitachino Nest in very small quantities. If it's well received we can expect to see them brewing it again. I just hope I get a chance to try it when it's released!



Left to Right: Albert Kuwano of AQ Bevolution, Brian Stillwater & Myself


At the bar



Left Stateside on draft Right from a bottle

Since Brian Stillwater is a saison specialist I felt that he should try a beer from one of Japan's saison specialists: Tamamura Honten aka Shiga Kogen. To that end I brought one of their barrel aged Yamabushi Saison One's to share. 
Coincidentally, Dig Bar has some empties up on their roof and when Brian had come in he'd asked about the beer but was told they were sold out. I inadvertantly came to the rescue!


Dig Bar & AQ Bevolution, Brian Stillwater and myself toasting with the Yamabushi Saison One

Afterwards the event kicked into high gear:










For a good interview with Brian Stillwater check this one out from dcbeer.com.

To see a good video just click on play:



Brian @ Stillwater Artisanal Ale from Williams Bros Brewing Co on Vimeo.


Monday, April 14, 2014

Aegir Brewery, Flam, Norway




Hey guys, here's a repost of my article from the latest issue of Beer Zen (Spring 2014) about Aegir Brewery in Norway. I've added extra photos which didn't make it into the print edition due to space constraints. The Japanese follows after the English.







aerial view of the brewery


Thanks again to Rei Murakami for translating the article! 

Beer Travel:
Fun in Flåm

Last summer, I got to visit the Ægir Brewery in Flåm , Norway, and I heartily recommend you do the same. Flåm 's an amazing place that is located deep in the heart of Norway's Fjord country. You can get there by train from Oslo on the scenic Flåm Railway or head to Bergen from where you can catch a ferry through the beautiful fjords. Or do like me, grab the ferry to Flåm & then head to Oslo by train.

the Flamsbana historic railway
Founded in 2001, by American homebrewer Evan Lewis with his wife Aud Melas and named after Ægir the norse master of the ocean – and brewing! Starting as a brewpub & hotel, they've been a success that has continued to grow every year. In 2012, they opened a production brewery about a mile out of town which now houses all of their production (about 600,000L in 2013) and allowed them to bring production home from Belgium where some was sent during early years of growth when the brewery couldn't keep up with demand.


















Unfortunately, when I visited Evan Lewis was out of town but he was kind enough to answer a few questions via email.

Why did you decide to build Ægir in Flåm ?

Brewpub & hotel
We built in Flåm becase this is where we had an opportunity to invest in an exisiting cafe and restaurant. In the 9 years we have been here we have built the brewpub and hotel, and have completely renovated the restaurant and cafe, while also building the new production brewery a year ago. While it is tourism that drives Flåm, the brewery is a totally new industry here and is busy year-round.


What's your brewing philosophy?

My brewing philosopy is variety, harmony, and quality. I believe that people deserve a choice when it comes to beer, and that they should have lots to choose from. We will brew 30 different beers this year. All of the beers have harmony and balance… we're not really the extreme beer people. And quality always comes first here.

Which beer are you proudest of?

The IPA is our flagship beer, and one of our top 3 bestsellers. I am extremely proud of this beer, and its worth mentioning that is was awarded Norways Beer of The Year for 2012. I love all of our beers for different reasons, and the seasonal speacialties each year are a treat.
hops & peppercorns

Since he couldn't show me around he introduced me to Vegard, Ægir's head brewer. The day I visited, I was shown around & then given the run of the brewery. Lucky for me it was brewday for a new Christmas Ale brewed with rose-peppercorns! 


Arriving at the production brewery is a treat, you walk out of town and quickly find it by a river with a beautiful waterfall running down the lush canyon walls behind the brewery! Beautiful. 



The Ægir sigil is proudly displayed and once you enter you're in a modern brewery full of stainless steel fermenters, brew kettles & the controlled chaos that is a craft brewery growing at a rapid pace.

Vegard told me that Ægir's IPA was his favorite beer as well, it was also voted Norway's Best Beer of 2012. So it was no surprise when I heard it's one of their tope 3 bestsellers! I can vouch that this is a great US style IPA, a clear orange-gold color with a classic citru, pine aroma & taste with just a hint of funk to keep things interesting.


Vegard head brewer



In Vegard's 3 years at Ægir he has brewed many beers but still shows up to work 12 hour days with a smile on his face as he loves what he does. He especially enjoys the challenges around brewing big beers like barley wines. 

That's what craft beer is all about love of the craft. This could be seen everywhere in Flåm . All the staff I met at the brewery & brewpub were into their jobs & enjoyed teaching people about their beers too. The proof is in the pudding as they say & every Ægir beer I had ranged from good to great. I especially enjoyed their Christmas beer & their Natt Imperial Porter was a big hit when I shared a souvenir bottle back in Japan.


distillery
Visiting Flåm is a perfect destination for beer lovers. You can see tons of nature, take a fjord cruise, go hiking, stay at Ægir's hotel, visit their viking themed brewpub or take a tour of the brewery. Since 2011 they even have a nanodistillery making small batches of aquavit you can enjoy. All in all, I can't recommend Flåm & Ægir's beers enough. They were a highlight of my trip to Scandinavia and while Ægir isn't well known abroad, in Norway it's one of the major craft breweries alongside Nøgne Ø & Haandbryggeriet. It's beers are quite well known in other northern European countries too. Hopefully someone will start importing them to Japan soon!


ビールの旅:フロムで楽しい休日を


Flam -フロム
昨夏、ノルウェーのフロムにあるエーギル(Ægir)醸造所を訪れる機会に恵まれた。皆さんにも同じ旅を心からお勧めする。フロムは素晴らしい場所で、ノルウェーのフィヨルド地方の奥深くにあり、オスロからは景観見事なフロム鉄道で行くか、まずベルゲンへ向かいそこでフェリーに乗り換えて美しいフィヨルドを抜けていく。または私のように、フェリーでフロムへ行き電車でオスロへ戻ることもできる。


エーギル醸造所は2001年にアメリカ人ホームブルワーのエヴァン・ルイスとその妻アウド・メラス(Aud Melas )が設立した。醸造所名は古代スカンジナビアの海の神エーギルからとられた。エーギルは醸造の神でもある!ブルーパブ兼ホテルとして始まったエーギルは成功し、年ごとに成長を重ねていった。2012年、彼らは街から1マイルほど離れた場所に醸造施設を開く。現在はすべてのビールがここで造られている(2013年現在、約60万リットル)。以前に事業拡大の過程で需要に供給が追いつかなくなってからは、一部の生産はベルギーでおこなわれていたが、それもフロムへ戻し、すべての生産活動を一カ所でおこなうことが可能になった。





 

barrels for aging beer





私が訪れた時は残念ながらエヴァン・ルイス氏は留守だったが、Eメールで快く質問に答えてくださった。


brewpub
なぜフロムにエーギルをつくることにしたのですか?

フロムを選んだのは、既存のカフェレストランに投資する機会がここにあったからです。この街にいる9年間で、私たちはブルーパブとホテルを建て、カフェレストランを完全に改装し、その一方で1年ほど前に新しい醸造設備を建設したのです。フロムの主な産業は観光で、醸造所はここではまったく新しい産業ですが、年間を通じて繁盛しています。

あなたの醸造哲学を教えていただけますか?

「バラエティ、ハーモニー、クオリティ」です。ビールに関して言えば、人には選ぶ権利があると思います。それも多くの選択肢から。私たちは今年30種類のビールを造ります。どれもハーモニーとバランスのあるビールです…私たちはビールに関して極端なタイプではありません。そして常にクオリティを最優先しています。

最も誇りにしていらっしゃるビールは?

IPAは私たちの看板ビールで、エーギルの売れ行きトップ3にも入っています。このビールを本当に誇りに思っていますし、2012年のノルウェービール・オブ・ザ・イヤーにも選ばれました。エーギルのビールのすべてを、それぞれ異なる理由で愛していますし、毎年の季節限定ビールは特別な楽しみでもあります。
Vegard working

彼が案内できないからと、エーギルのヘッドブルワーであるベガルド(Vegard)さんを紹介いただいた。私が訪問した日は、いろいろと見せていただいた上に、醸造所での説明まで受けることができた。何とも幸運なことに、その日はローズペッパーコーンを使用した新しいクリスマスエールの仕込み日だった!

この醸造所へ到着する瞬間もまた素晴らしい。街の外へ歩いていくと、間もなくして、渓谷の見事な崖を流れ落ちる美しい滝と川辺の醸造所が視界に現れる。しかも醸造所の裏手の景色がこれだ!美しい。エーギルの表示が誇らしげに掲げられていて、一歩中に入れば、そこはステンレス製の発酵タンクや煮沸釜が並び、カオスのような忙しさに満ちていながらすべてが制御されている最新の醸造施設だ。急速に成長を続けるクラフトビールの醸造所だ。

エーギルのIPAはベガルドさんのお気に入りでもあるという。2012年のノルウェーベストビールにも選ばれていて、このIPAが彼らの売れ筋トップ3であると聞いても驚くことはなかった!素晴らしいアメリカンスタイルIPAであると私が保証する。ビールは透き通ったオレンジ色~金色で、クラシックな柑橘や松のアロマと風味があり、かすかにファンキーなキャラクターがビールの魅力を増している。

3年間、エーギルでベガルドさんは多くのビールを造ってきた。この仕事が好きでたまらない彼は、今でも112時間の仕事を笑顔で続けている。彼が特に楽しんでいるのは、バーレーワインなど高アルコールビールの醸造で挑戦をすることだ。これぞ、クラフトビール。手造りへの愛情だ。フロムでは至る所でそれを目にすることができる。醸造所やブルーパブで出会ったスタッフは誰もが仕事に夢中で、自分たちのビールについて説明をすることを楽しんでいた。論より証拠と言う通りで、私が飲んだエーゲルのビールはどれも「優れている」から「素晴らしい」の間の範囲におさまるものだった。特にクリスマスビールは良かったし、瓶を土産に持ち帰り日本の仲間と分けた時には、ナットインペリアルポーターが大ヒットだった。

フロムはビール好きにとって完璧な目的地だ。本当に多くの自然を楽しむことができ、フィヨルドクルーズに参加し、ハイキングをし、エーギルのホテルに泊まり、バイキングをテーマにしたエーギルのブルーパブを訪れたり醸造所ツアーに参加したりできる。2011年以来エーギルは極小サイズの蒸留所まで持っていて、ここでは少量の仕込み量で造られているアクアヴィットの試飲もできる。とにかく、フロムとエーギルのビールを勧めるにはいくら語っても足りない。ここは私のスカンジナビア旅行のハイライトだった。海外での知名度はそれほど高くないが、ノルウェーでは、クラフトビールといえばエーゲルはヌグネ・オーやハーンブリゲリットと並ぶ主要な醸造所だ。エーゲルのビールは他の北欧諸国でも良く知られている。日本へも輸入されることを願っている!

(翻訳:
Rei